Can Monstera live outside? Yes — here’s exactly when and how

Yes — Monstera can live outside, and in most cases it’s genuinely good for them. More light means faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration. The caveats are temperature (they don’t like frost), sunburn (they need acclimating), and the fact that they dry out alarmingly quickly in warm weather.

If you’re in a hurry: the ideal temperature range is 18–30°C / 65–85°F, and you should bring them back in before the first frost. Everything else is below.

The reasons to do it are good though:

• More light means bigger, more fenestrated leaves — my Monstera always puts out its best growth outside
• Rain does your watering for you (mostly)
• It’s much easier to really blast thrips off outside with a hose
• Your garden is now a jungle oasis
• It frees up inside space for more plants. Bringing it back in for winter is future you’s problem.

Can Monstera deliciosa live outside?

Yes — Monstera deliciosa are actually more adaptable than most people think. They’re considered an invasive species in several countries precisely because they can adapt to such a wide range of outdoor conditions.

Even if the leaves get damaged by frost or sunburn, their roots are extremely hardy. The plant itself is hard to kill. The leaves are more vulnerable than the plant.

What temperatures can Monstera deliciosa tolerate outside?

Monstera can survive a wider temperature range than most guides suggest, but for comfortable, healthy outdoor living, aim to keep them within 18–30°C / 65–85°F.

A lot of houseplant experts put 18°C/65°F as the absolute lower limit, but my Monstera stay outside until the thermometer hits single digits and have never had cold damage. I live in North Yorkshire — it’s not exactly tropical. That said, I wouldn’t push it deliberately. Cold and wet together is more damaging than cold alone.

When should I put my Monstera deliciosa outside?

After the risk of frost has passed. In the UK that’s usually mid-May, though I wait for Monty Don to confirm — if he’s planting his dahlias, I’m putting my Monstera outside.

Many guides suggest waiting until it’s properly warm, but I’ve found putting them out earlier actually helps with acclimation and reduces the risk of burning later in the season..

When should I bring my Monstera deliciosa back inside?

I bring all of my inside plants back inside at the end of September beginning of October. I don’t want them to risk getting caught in the frost and October is UK can be anything from Big Coat to T shirt weath.

How cold can Monstera deliciosa tolerate?

There have been instances when Monstera have been outside at -2˚C/28˚F and suffered no damage (source). That same article references another Monstera that was outside in -6˚C/21˚F which was damaged to the point that it didn’t regrow well the following year, but did make a full recovery.

It's important to note that not all Monstera deliciosa will be able to tolerate those temperatures. 

That could have well been due to the genetics of that specific plant, or even down to the care it received. 

So don’t leave your Monstera outside in the frost, BUT if an accident happens, it doesn’t necessarily mean the end of your Monstera.

How Monstera live outside in [your location]? A quick guide by climate

This is the question I get asked most by US readers — and the answer really does depend on where you are. Here’s the short version:

The general rule: if your winters don’t drop below 10°C/50°F, you can experiment with leaving your Monstera outside longer. If you get hard frosts, treat it as a summer-only plant.

Can I plant my Monstera deliciosa outside?

Yes — and if you’re in a warm enough climate, it’s actually preferable to keeping it in a pot. A Monstera in the ground can find its own moisture, doesn’t need watering as often, and tends to grow significantly larger.

The main considerations:

• Soil quality matters — if you have heavy clay, dig a decent hole and backfill with a Monstera-appropriate mix before planting
• Once it’s in the ground it’s harder to bring inside in an emergency (storm, unexpected frost)
• In zones 10–12 you can leave it permanently. Anywhere with frost, it’s a seasonal option only

Do Monstera like to be outside?

They love the light — whether you acclimate them properly or not. Monstera don’t care if their old leaves get burnt to a crisp, as long as the new ones have the conditions to grow huge. They’re not sentimental about their foliage.

Rain is fine — it cleans the leaves and gives them a thorough soaking, though it temporarily slows photosynthesis. Wind is neutral to slightly beneficial — it encourages a stronger stem, though as a hemiepiphyte a Monstera would still prefer something to climb.

How to acclimate Monstera to living outside

You can’t just move an indoor Monstera straight into full outdoor sun — you’ll get burnt leaves within hours.

Plants produce UV-filtering molecules (sinapate esters, if you want to impress someone) to protect themselves from sun damage, but they need time to ramp up production.

Why do we need to acclimate Monstera deliciosa if we put them outside?

To stop them getting sunburnt.

Plants produce chemicals called sinapate esters to protect themselves from sun damage. Most of this protection comes from a so-called sunscreen molecule called sinapoyl malate that filters out UV-B.

Obviously, plants need sunlight to photosynthesize – otherwise, they wouldn’t be able to grow, so plants can control the concentration of UV-absorbing metabolites in the top layer of cells in their leaves (source).

The more sun exposure they get, the more sinapate esters they produce BUT they need time to produce these metabolites.

How to acclimate Monstera deliciosa to living outside

Method 1: the gradual approach (low risk, high effort)

Put your Monstera outside for one hour in gentle morning light. Increase by an hour each week. After a month it’ll be ready for longer exposure.

The benefit: almost no risk of burning. The downside: who has time for that?

Method 2: the lazy approach (higher risk, much easier)

Find a spot in your garden that’s in full shade all day — under a tree, next to a shed, behind a screen of other plants. Leave your Monstera there for three weeks, then gradually move it to brighter spots.

This is what I actually do. I put mine behind my wet laundry — it protects it from direct sun and marginally increases humidity. Is it the most elegant solution? No. Does it work? Yes.

Spot-picking tips

• Morning sun is much gentler than afternoon sun — if your spot gets direct light, make sure it’s in the morning only
• Dappled shade under a tree is ideal for the acclimation period
• Keep it out of wind if possible while it adjusts

Once acclimated, a Monstera can handle quite a lot of direct light — here in the UK mine can be in bright light even on hot days without burning. If you’re somewhere significantly sunnier (i.e. most places), you’ll want more permanent shade cover.

One other thing worth doing when you move your Monstera outside: adjust the potting mix. Outside Monstera drink a lot more water, so adding water-retaining materials like coir helps. You can also safely add compost without worrying about fungus gnats — one of the many upsides of outdoor keeping.

Problems with keeping Monstera outside

They dry out incredibly fast

Especially in hot weather. I’m talking twice-a-day watering fast. If you can’t keep on top of hydration in a heatwave, bring it inside. Crispy leaves are the consequence and they don’t recover.

Humidity can drop

Monstera adapt well to low humidity but very dry conditions — particularly dry heat — will give you crispy leaf edges. If you live somewhere that gets seriously hot and dry, factor this in.

Leaf damage is more common

Wind, rain, next door’s cat, the occasional hailstone — there’s just more stuff outside to mark leaves. The unfurling leaves are especially vulnerable. New leaves will always be better than old ones, so don’t stress about it too much — but it’s worth knowing.

Theft risk (yes, really)

I’d think twice about putting a variegated Monstera outside. Not only is it more susceptible to burning, variegated plants are more at risk of being taken. A standard Monstera deliciosa is probably fine. A Thai Constellation might be pushing it.

Caring for Monstera outside: the quick version

• Water more often — potted plants can dry out daily in hot weather. Check the soil every day when it’s warm
• Fertilise every two weeks — increased growth and more frequent watering depletes nutrients faster than indoors
• Check for pests before bringing back inside — hose it down, treat with insecticidal soap if needed, then hose again
• Readjust potting mix for indoors — if you added compost or water-retaining materials, switch back to your indoor mix before bringing it in

Bringing Monstera back inside for winter

Bring it in before the first frost — don’t cut it fine. Here in the UK I bring mine in at the end of September. Autumn temperatures are unpredictable and cold, wet conditions are just as damaging as cold alone.

Do you need to bring it in at all?

Only if you get frost. If you’re in a frost-free climate (zones 10–12), you can leave it outside year-round. Cool and dry is survivable — just expect slower growth. Cold and wet is more risky.

Acclimating back to indoors

Don’t be surprised if your Monstera has a rough few weeks after coming back inside. It’s gone from high light to low light overnight — that’s a big adjustment. Maximise the light it gets (brightest window you have, or add a grow light), and give it a few weeks to settle. It’ll get there.